Re sizing, are you using the standard "add 4" to determine your size or the true band size method advocated by the Reddit "A bra that fits" group? Switching to the true band size method was literally life changing for me! I used to think I was a 32B or 34A depending on style. My true size is 28 DD! (28 rib, 32.5-33 bust, depending on hormones
). I prefer a little more breathing room, and since that is a hard to find size and I refuse to pay over $50 for a bra, I use the sister size 30D at Aerie.
For bras - Aerie! They have a huge variety of bralettes (which I've become a fan of since swearing off underwire) and they also have a few styles of no wire "real" bras that actually shape you. Their sizing can be inconsistent so it pays to try on in person if possible or order a bunch planning to return many but the comfort is worth it. The underwires I keep for when I need that type of shaping are the Sunnie style (I believe it's the Sunnie full coverage?) but I recently tried their Happy no wire push up and it was so comfy! It had the shape of a wire without the discomfort and the push up was not crazy, just a little lifted. Those styles run smaller in both the band and the cup so I had to size up to 32C but when I compared the band to my 30s it was shorter. So keep in mind your sizing might be wonky on those, esp if you use the true band method, but the comfort and lovely silhouette are worth it. Bras are often 40% off so hold off for at least that good a deal, and check the clearance page because they change fabrics and colors frequently and put the current season's stuff on clearance to make room for next season colors. (I also love their undies, FWIW.)
Soma has some nice bras but their smallest band is 32 so they don't fit me right.