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  1. #1
    bisous is online now Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    Default UPDATED! Weigh in? Yellowstone! Expert Advice Requested!

    I wanted to start a thread here to see if the kind posters who volunteered their help with planning our Yellowstone trip wouldn't mind giving their advice?

    I've done nothing so far except start to look at the calendar. DH can't give me a firm commitment on which week. On top of that, I'm not EXACTLY sure what DS1 will do after graduating. He wants to go on a mission right away. I'd actually prefer that he go to school for at least a semester. I just think he'll be a better missionary with that kind of experience under his belt! But ultimately he gets to decide.

    I have two ideas for what we could plan.

    If he goes on a mission right away I'm thinking June 10 through 22 but doesn't have to be that long. In fact, the little kids actually don't get out of school until the 15th! But I'm sort of willing (just this once!) to let them leave school a few days early. That way it doesn't conflict with other plans later in the summer. It doesn't usually get less complicated as the summer progresses!

    The other option is, if DS1 decides to do a summer term at BYU (which he hasn't been admitted to yet, lol) then I'm thinking maybe August 12th through 24th instead.

    Both are the maximum length we could do and would definitely be on the longer side for one of our vacations. We'd be driving...from CA. So it would be 2 hours of driving on each end...leaving only 8 days for the park.

    What is reasonable?

    We'd have our own car. We're on a budget for sure! We're not opposed to camping if that's what would make this doable. I might have to be medicated to deal with the extra stress and work (hah!) but we could make it work, lol. We're set up for car camping with a big tent, sleeping bags, etc.

    My kids are 8, 10, 14 and 18. The teens love to hike but are not otherwise adventurous. The little kids don't love to hike but maybe we can practice? The rest of us adore it. All of them love the wildlife and they love geology and would want to see those aspects of the park. None of us have been there. DH has family in the Provo/SLC area we could probably stay with on our drive.

    Any advice would be appreciated!
    Last edited by bisous; 01-30-2022 at 08:27 PM.

  2. #2
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    Early June is a crap shoot--could snow. The end of August can get rainy--or it can be really smoky due to wildfires. I would advise going in June and staying in the cabins. At this point, you will have to take any lodging you can get--but book it whatever it is that will hold 6 people!!. Then, start calling back every few days starting in March to see if there are cancellations. Happens all the time that there are and people are able to rearrange things for the better. This will be a big chunk of money, but totally worth it!!! Once you have lodging, then you can plan what you will see when. So get that and then come back to tell us what you have reserved.

    Because everything else to do in that park is free. So that just leaves food. You could easily bring a cooler with you. Stop off in Rexburg or West Yellowstone to get groceries for breakfast and lunches and snacks. You can top off at the Hamilton stores inside of Yellowstone but this way you have the bulk of your stuff purchased. Cheap eats for dinner--the cafeteria service in the lodges or the Hamilton Store grill food is cheap.

    8 days is a long time for the park. You really don't need that long. You could see a LOT in 5 days. And then take the 3 extra days to explore the Tetons. Maybe see the Tetons for 2 days and then splurge on a whitewater rafting trip on the Snake River?? You could stay in the cabins at Dornans lodge--they are reasonable and right at the south entrance to GTNP.

    Things to do--review the trip link I sent you. We didn't do long hikes. Just some short ones. There is so much to see walking around the geyser basins or in the Hayden Valley or looking for wolves. All of the main places have spectacular visitor centers where you learn so much and they are really cool. Just lots to see--geysers, waterfalls, ranger talks, star gazing, look for wolves in the Lamar Valley, etc etc. Check out the nps.gov website for Yellowstone. See if you can find the park newspaper for summer 2021--maybe not. But it will tell you everything you need to know. You can also check out the Plan your visit tab on that website. And it will tell you all about every place to eat, things to see, hikes ranked by difficulty and length, etc. etc.
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  3. #3
    bisous is online now Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    Quote Originally Posted by StantonHyde View Post
    Early June is a crap shoot--could snow. The end of August can get rainy--or it can be really smoky due to wildfires. I would advise going in June and staying in the cabins. At this point, you will have to take any lodging you can get--but book it whatever it is that will hold 6 people!!. Then, start calling back every few days starting in March to see if there are cancellations. Happens all the time that there are and people are able to rearrange things for the better. This will be a big chunk of money, but totally worth it!!! Once you have lodging, then you can plan what you will see when. So get that and then come back to tell us what you have reserved.

    Because everything else to do in that park is free. So that just leaves food. You could easily bring a cooler with you. Stop off in Rexburg or West Yellowstone to get groceries for breakfast and lunches and snacks. You can top off at the Hamilton stores inside of Yellowstone but this way you have the bulk of your stuff purchased. Cheap eats for dinner--the cafeteria service in the lodges or the Hamilton Store grill food is cheap.

    8 days is a long time for the park. You really don't need that long. You could see a LOT in 5 days. And then take the 3 extra days to explore the Tetons. Maybe see the Tetons for 2 days and then splurge on a whitewater rafting trip on the Snake River?? You could stay in the cabins at Dornans lodge--they are reasonable and right at the south entrance to GTNP.

    Things to do--review the trip link I sent you. We didn't do long hikes. Just some short ones. There is so much to see walking around the geyser basins or in the Hayden Valley or looking for wolves. All of the main places have spectacular visitor centers where you learn so much and they are really cool. Just lots to see--geysers, waterfalls, ranger talks, star gazing, look for wolves in the Lamar Valley, etc etc. Check out the nps.gov website for Yellowstone. See if you can find the park newspaper for summer 2021--maybe not. But it will tell you everything you need to know. You can also check out the Plan your visit tab on that website. And it will tell you all about every place to eat, things to see, hikes ranked by difficulty and length, etc. etc.
    Thank you! This is great info. I forgot that Yellowstone is having the same issue with fires that we have all the way out here. How sad! I will see what I can book for June and let you know.

    Good to know that 5 days is enough. That's what we'll aim for! It will be less expensive and DH is more likely to be able to feel ok about asking for time off. (He has tons of vacation but has a hard time asking for it for "political reasons" lol!)

    I did read your post and it was super helpful. It made me think about my kids' stances on hikes and that's what informed what I wrote!

  4. #4
    bisous is online now Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    Would it be weird to book BOTH weeks and cancel the one we don't end up needing? That way we have some flexibility!

    Just a thought...

  5. #5
    jgenie is offline Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    Quote Originally Posted by bisous View Post
    Would it be weird to book BOTH weeks and cancel the one we don't end up needing? That way we have some flexibility!

    Just a thought...
    I would try to book both. If you’re lucky enough to get them both, you’ll make someone else’s day when you cancel the one you won’t use.

  6. #6
    bisous is online now Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    OK. Slowly making my way through the various lodging options! Would love any recommendations for SIX people! On the Yosemite website you can put in your dates and your party size and get your options. I'm not finding that on Yellowstone and it means a lot of leg work! I'll keep at it but if you have any places you KNOW would house 6 I'd love to hear it!

  7. #7
    bisous is online now Red Diamond level (10,000+ posts)
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    OK guys. Found another spot. It looks like we'll be CAMPING, lol. Nothing, absolutely nothing else is available! I guess we'll be saving a lot!

    How do you guys find openings? Just look every day and hope for a cancellation?

    I really do appreciate all the help you guys have provided!!

  8. #8
    SnuggleBuggles is online now Black Diamond level (25,000+ posts)
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    Book anything you can now. Set an alert on your phone to check back weekly for now and up the frequency in the spring. People change their reservations all the time.


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  9. #9
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    nfceagles is offline Sapphire level (2000+ posts)
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    Default Yellowstone! Expert Advice Requested!

    We had a great trip staying in W Yellowstone for part of it. If that’s cheaper or more available it might be an option.


    Night 1: Slept in W Yellowstone
    Did the north loop of The Park
    Night 2: Slept in a hotel in Canyon Lodge
    Got up early and explored the NE and E side of the park.
    Night 3: Slept in W Yellowstone
    Traveled from W Yellowstone to GTNP via the SW quadrant.
    Night 4-6: Camped a few nights in GTNP Colter Bay (one of my favorite places on earth if there’s availability)

    We also love Island Park, ID, Mesa Falls, and Earthquake Lake if you’re looking for things on the way to Yellowstone. My kids loved the Bear and Wolf place in W Yellowstone too.


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    Last edited by nfceagles; 11-20-2021 at 08:15 AM.

  10. #10
    marinkitty is offline Sapphire level (2000+ posts)
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    Hi there - chiming in a bit late, but do not be intimidated by tent camping in the park, even in June. It is not uncomfortable as long as you come prepared with good tent, sleeping pads and sleeping bags and proper clothing.

    I do think you want to move campsites at least once if you are spending five days in Yellowstone. It is just so vast that staying in one section of the park means a lot of car time every day. The good news is that the road between Tower and Canyon will reopen next year and that will save a lot of the headache I've dealt with the past two summers.

    As far as campgrounds - I LOVE LOVE LOVE Slough Creek Campground if you can get a spot. It is in the Lamar Valley, has very few sites and it is a primitive campground (vault toilets and a water pump) but it is located right on a stream at the end of a quiet dirt road and is IDEAL for getting up early and seeing the wolves or spending sunset watching the animals and then not facing a long drive back to the other, more populated areas of the park. The wolves are seriously amazing and in June you have a great chance of a den with pups being right in that area. But you can still find them in August - you'll just have to ask around about where they are based. Rangers and the wolf watchers will know and most are happy to share their info. There are some great books about the Yellowstone wolves to read before going that enrich the experience of seeing them. If you know where to go, there are good odds you'll find them. I watched them four separate times last summer - sometimes for more than a hour. Seriously a priceless experience!

    Slough Creek is also a great base for a day trip to drive the Beartooth Hwy (might not be open in early June depending on snow pack) which is 100% worth doing if you are spending any time in the NE part of the park.

    The wild life I've seen when camping at Slough Creek is just jaw dropping - wolves galore (consider renting a spotting scope in Cooke City, Gardiner or West Yellowstone for your time in the park), bears (both grizzlies and black bears), loads of bison, pronghorn, coyotes, fox, eagles, raptors, moose, elk.

    There are also some nice, short to medium length hikes in the area (Slough Creek Trail (to the first meadow to keep it relatively short), Trout Lake, Yellowstone River Overlook Trail - this is a favorite of mine, not well traveled and terrific ridge views down into the canyon at the Yellowstone river with thermals and wildlife, big horn sheep, bison, marmots most likely) that are not terribly crowded and provide spectacular scenery.

    So, I'd urge you to spend some time in that section of the park. You won't regret it. Pebble Creek campground is a Plan B if you can't get into Slough Creek - not quite as private but also nice especially if you get a site next to the creek or in the back) and Mammoth Campground would be a plan C (further drive but lets you base for more areas - Mammoth, Norris, Lamar). I *think* Slough and Pebble open 6 months out and they both book via the NPS site. I camped at both Slough and Pebble last summer and had a marvelous time. Slough Creek Campground oddly had internet service even though almost nowhere in that part of the park does. Not sure if the camp host had a booster or what, but it was a nice, unexpected convenience for me when researching hikes and looking at weather while camping.

    For seeing the lower half of the park, I'd base elsewhere. I'm very partial to the northern section of Yellowstone, so I'm not quite as knowledgeable on the lower loop. I haven't camped down there (only boondocked in national forest land outside the park) but hopefully someone else can chime in on the in park campgrounds in that area. There are several and they are much bigger, have more amenities and hookups. The hike to the lookout above Grand Prismatic is crowded but worth doing - save it for the afternoon as the colors from above are much better later in the day. Park at Biscuit Basin to reach that, not at the main Grand Prismatic parking lot. My kids like the Artist's Paint Pots, although last year by late summer they were pretty dry and not much to look at). The upper terraces at Mammoth tend to be less crowded and can get you to all the same places as the hairball of parking down my the main Mammoth area - drive the upper terrace drive - we almost always see wildlife up there as well. West Thumb Geyser basin is worth stopping at. The Canyon and waterfalls are fabulous - go to every single viewpoint and hike any open trails. The drive in through the east gate (nearest Cody) is also super beautiful (the Shoshone River area) but unless you need to stay in Cody, pretty out of the way for you. Old Faithful isn't my cup of tea (total mob scene) but stop once (early or late) and peek into the Lodge as it is a super cool structure. For Geyers without as many people, do the full loop at Norris Geyser Basin (the back loop) as to two times I've been there on busy days that area was much less traveled - most people just pop out of their cars, walk a few hundred yards and tick the box.

    Agree completely on spending a few days in the Tetons as well. I've only dispersed camped there (near Moose and to the east of the park on National Forest land) but I've heard good things about Coulter Bay Campground from friends and I really think any campground in the park would be fine. It is a much smaller park and easy to get around. It is a hikers haven - so many to choose from. Also biker friendly if you want to rent bikes in Jackson and bike into the park. The Snake River float trips are great too. Favorite places to stop that aren't super long hikes - String Lake (brought my inflatable paddle board and had a lovely afternoon here), Jenny Lake (hike around or take the boat and do Inspiration Point and part of the canyon), the hike around Phelps Lake (and if your kids are daredevils the jumping rock there is a don't miss), Mormon Row for photos at sunset and to see Moose in the evenings.

    As you research, come back with any other questions. Plan on having most of your supplies with you when you come into the parks - you can get ice and gas inside the parks but food resupply options are super pricey and limited. If you are driving in, I'd suggest a supply run at a place other than the gateway towns.

    You could camp along the way too - we did a trip into Idaho last year and loved camping at City of Rocks National Reserve - that's near the NV/UT/ID border so maybe it would be on the way. Really beautiful scenery, very private (again, primitive camping because that's how I roll) and great hikes and wildlife (big horn sheep were plentiful). If that's way off the mark, share your likely route and I can suggest other places to camp en route. We've done a lot of camping all over out there.

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